1. Add gutter extensionsIf downspouts are dumping water less than 5 feet away from your house, you can guide water farther out by adding plastic or metal gutter extensions. But extensions aren’t the neatest or most effective long-term solution, especially if you’re likely to trip over them or run over them with a lawn mower. Permanent, underground drain pipe is invisible and capable of moving large quantities of gutter runoff much farther from your house. For about $10-15 a foot, a landscaper or waterproofing contractor will dig a sloping trench and install pipe to carry the water safely away.
2. Restore the crownIf the gutters are working and you’ve plugged obvious holes, but water still dribbles into your basement or crawl space from high on foundation walls, then surface water isn’t draining away from the house as it should. Your house should sit on a “crown” of soil that slopes at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet in all directions. Over time, the soil around the foundation settles. You can build it back with a shovel and dirt. One cubic yard of a water-shedding clay-loam mix from a landscape supply house costs around $30 (plus delivery) and is enough for a 2-foot-wide, 3-inch-deep layer along 57 feet of foundation.
3. Reshape the landscapeSince your home’s siding slightly overlaps its foundation, building up the crown could bring soil—and rot and termites—too close to siding for comfort: 6 inches is the minimum safe distance. In that case, create a berm (a mound of dirt) or a swale (a wide, shallow ditch), landscape features that redirect water long before it reaches your house. In small areas, berms are easy; a landscape contractor can build one for a few hundred dollars. On bigger projects, berms make less sense because you’ll have to truck in too much soil. In that case, dig a swale. Once landscaping grows in, berms and swales can be attractive features in your yard
4. Repair footing drainsIf water is leaking into your basement low on the walls or at the seams where walls meet the floor, your problem is hydrostatic pressure pushing water up from the ground. First, check whether you have footing drains, underground pipes installed when the house was built to carry water away from the foundation. (Look for a manhole or drain in the basement floor or a cleanout pipe capped a few inches above the floor.) If the drains are clogged, open the cleanout and flush the pipes with a garden hose.
5. Install a curtain drainIf you don’t have working footing drains, install a curtain drain to divert water that’s traveling underground toward your house. A type of French drain, a curtain drain is a shallow trench—2 feet deep and 1.5 feet across—filled with gravel and perforated piping that intercepts water uphill of your house and carries it down the slope a safe distance away. If the drain passes through an area with trees or shrubs, consider switching to solid pipe to reduce the risk of roots growing into the piping and clogging it. Call Lisk Landscape now for your curtain drain Consultation 856-931-LISK.
6. Waterproof the wallsInstalling an interior drainage system gets the water out but doesn’t waterproof the walls. For that, you need an exterior system: a French drain to relieve hydrostatic pressure and exterior waterproofing to protect the foundation. It’s a big job that requires excavating around the house, but it may be the best solution if you have a foundation with numerous gaps. It also keeps the mess and water outside, which may be the best choice if you don’t want to tear up a finished basement. The downside, besides a price tag that can reach $20,000, is that your yard takes a beating, and you may need to remove decks or walkways.
To find out how you can get started waterproofing your basement today, contact us for a consultation or call us at 856-931-5475